LibreOffice Writer upgrade from 5.x to 6.3.1.2, find-and-replace (ctl-H) only gives find

I upgraded from 5.x (about 2 yrs old) to 6.3.1.2 yesterday, and today am working on an old odt document (my resume). Trying to do a general find-and-replace, I used [Ctl-H]. The Find toolbar enabled, and I can find stuff, but there is no place to enter a replacement value. I tried shutting off the toolbar, but it is auto-re-enabled when I again try either from the Edit->Find & Replace or from [Ctl-H]. I cannot seem to get to any other type of interface. What gives? Is “find-and-replace” as we know it dead in this version, or is there some secret setting needed to fix this?

When changing mayor versions, it’s a good idea to start with a fresh user profile. Follow the instructions in the linked page to reset your user profile: you’ll lost all installed extensions, but the full search&replace tool will be there.