How to achieve WYSIWYG color translation between screen and printer?

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Screen colours are additive mixing. The light going into the eye is the surface light plus the added light coming from the LEDs. The colour is always lighter than the surface. They are defined by RGB values.

Print ink colours are subtractive mixing. The light going into the eye is the surface light minus the colours which are absorbed by the ink so they are prevented from leaving the surface and going to the eye. The colour is always darker than the surface. They are defined by CMYK values.

Only some of the RGB colours can be converted to the equivalent CMYK values.

LO carefully chooses its screen colours such that they have exact CMYK equivalents but, if you have designed your own colours, they probably do not have CMYK equivalents.

This is why photos cannot faithfully reproduce what you see. Those having lived in Africa will be familiar with the fact that photos of jacaranda trees are always disappointing as the colour is so poor.

Some thoughts, ajlittoz' and ebot's advice notwithstanding.

Settings to bring perceived brightness of printed matter close to what you see on screen are mostly in the "gamma correction" class, which is not the domain of LibreOffice. You can sometimes adjust this in the printer properties, but be aware that this will be "system wide" (affects all printing) and may hurt the print quality of some photo applications which keep track of their own correction schemes. Good photo color quality is perhaps more important than good highlighting.

The advice from ebot is most likely the optimal solution. If that makes highlighter colors too light or too intense to be workable on your screen, and gamma/color correction is available in your print driver, you could try to create a "highlighter" color profile for your printer so you can switch between "good profiles", one for text/highlight purposes and another for photo printing. Making a "true" color profile may be possible, but not easy.

"Gamma correction" is an operation required because light sensor and light emission electronics generally do not have "linear response". This usually makes very dark and very bright regions of an uncompensated image appear quite normal, while the midtones (where most of your highlighters will be) appear dark or dull. Combine this with the slight deviation in print inks'/toners' coloration and print devices' performance variations, and you can begin to imagine the difficulties in reproducing a "perfect image".

For professional photo work you can calibrate the color response of a good screen, individually for each primary color, to match the source image fairly well. You can then calibrate the print device accordingly, for primaries individually, to match source image/display output fairly well. This is a challenging job, requires good skills, some equipment (or excellent color vision), and can still take a couple of hours to get it right. It still won't be perfect, because the primaries for additive color blend (screen) are not the same as the primaries for subtractive color blend (print), and our eyes (the ultimate target) are dynamic, their sensitivity will adjust to the environment and will not always perceive the same blend point as "balanced" (i.e. "white"), in particular when one subject emits light (the screen) while the other reflects it (the print).

Geez, sorry. No, there is no recipe or I do not know it.

Briefly to the theory: You can calibrate your screen and possibly also your printer. Whether the result is then satisfactory is questionable.

If it's only about light or dark colors, I suggest the following workaround:

Make yourself a pattern table with small cells. Use your colors in one line.

Under this line you use the same colors again with a slightly lighter color gradation. So you can create several lines.

Print out the table and see what color brightness suits your needs.

Maybe someone else has a better idea.

PS: Even professional printery with very high quality equipment know this problem.